Seigetsuzan Unrinji Temple

Author: Richard Perkins
Photos/Videos Taken: 2024/04/22
Address: 2489 Kibe-kami, Hagi,
Yamaguchi 758-0304

Japanese people love cats. This is no surprise; Japan has cat cafes (cafes full of cats). Many people will pay to spend time with them. It may seem like a modern-day fad, but the Japanese have always loved cats. Natsume Sōseki, a novelist during the Meiji period (1868-1912), wrote I Am a Cat. This famous novel is written from a cat's point of view. There’s also the 招き猫 (maneki-neko), a traditional Japanese handicraft shaped like a cat. As one can see, the Japanese love of cats has a long history.

In Japan, cat cafes aren’t the only places to interact with cats. Some Buddhist temples and Shintō shrines are dedicated to cats, which are sometimes worshipped like gods. One such temple is 栖月山雲林寺 (seigetsuzan-unrinji) in Hagi, Yamaguchi Prefecture. This temple—belonging to the Rinzai sect of Buddhism—is filled with cat-shaped toys and figures. Those who love cats will love it here.

Also known as the “Cat Temple”, Unrinji Temple wasn’t built to attract tourists. It has a long history and was originally established as a subsidiary temple (a temple affiliated with a larger head temple) of Tenjuin Temple, also located in Hagi, Yamaguchi Prefecture. The head temple is dedicated to Mori Terumoto (1553–1625), the head of the Mori clan who oversaw the relocation of the clan’s seat of government to Hagi.

Unrinji Temple was built roughly 400 years ago, although the exact date is unclear. There’s a legend here involving Mōri Terumoto. Nagai Motofusa, a retainer of Mōri Terumoto, took his own life following his master's death in 1625. After his death, the cat he had owned was said to have become incredibly sad. Overcome with grief, the cat bit its own tongue and took its own life. This is quite an unusual story. It doesn’t relate to how Unrinji Temple became known as the “Cat Temple”, but Mōri Terumoto does have a link to a cat. It’s an interesting coincidence.

As mentioned, Unrinji Temple has a long history. However, for many years, there was no head monk. At long last, in 1996, the temple was passed down to Sumida Jisei. He put a maneki-neko (which he’d received from his family) on display here. Before long, visitors began asking Sumida Jisei if they could leave their own cat-shaped toys and figures at the temple. The number of these items gradually grew, and now more than 600 are on display. Those who’ve visited this temple know it's full of cats. Every nook and cranny has a cat-related item in or on it. In addition to these figures and decorations, there are actual cats here too. After the head monk started feeding a stray cat, more cats began appearing. Now, several cats live at the temple.

This temple can be explored freely. Usually, visitors aren’t allowed inside the main buildings of Shintō shrines or Buddhist temples, making this a special experience. The main hall is filled with cat-shaped toys and figures, with bookshelves and display cases packed to the brim. Visitors will surely be surprised by just how many items there are. There are also specially-made cat masks. Anyone can try them on. They make for striking photos that can’t be taken elsewhere. Despite all this, the temple isn’t just a place that surprises and overwhelms visitors. Here, one can also make some fun memories.

As mentioned, Unrinji Temple may look like it was designed to attract tourists. However, it has a long history unrelated to tourism. It isn’t particularly large, so it won’t take long to explore. Despite this, it has a unique atmosphere unlike other Shintō shrines or Buddhist temples. One will most certainly be overwhelmed. Even those who aren’t particularly fond of cats will enjoy this unusual temple. When sightseeing in Yamaguchi Prefecture, why not visit Seigetsuzan Unrinji Temple? This is a peculiar temple not found elsewhere.

NOTE
This temple isn’t located near the centre of the city of Hagi. It can be difficult to reach without a car or motorcycle, and it’s also some distance from the city’s other sightseeing spots. For first-time visitors here, fitting it into their itinerary may be difficult. For those planning to visit, we recommend renting a car (or motorcycle).